This week: shell cordovan shoes. Please do not wear black shoes with jeans. Some shell will spot at the sight of rain, while others (even the same maker and tannery) will soak it up and keep clear of spots, like nothing happened. Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. Hi Simon, I highly recommend the Alden restoration service. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. No I wouldnt. Or do you think cordovan is less versatile in boots? The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. Simon Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. In addition to its durability, shell cordovan also stretches less than other leathers. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. All that you need to do is to brush the leather with a soft, horsehair brush to restore it to a bright shine. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) However, theres a few downsides of cordovan that some might not know about, which can be good to be aware of if you are an aspiring cordovan shoe buyer. Saphir . https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 I guess it might be your feet, but then again I havent worn mine for 12 years either. However, I would think carefully about the style. Normally I wear 8.5 E in all EG lasts. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. thanks and any advice would be highly appreciated! Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. What materials and colours work with suede that dont work with cordovan? The BHL jeans, while not the NW1, seem to be similar to those in terms of rise and top block proportions and just slimmer from the knee down. But then that might also mean your heel slips more. A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Oh, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. Whether you should buy them is really up to you. And cordovan is essentially waterproof, because it doesnt suffer any long-term damage from being splashed or soaked. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? In my experience they do stretch. Lovely. Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. My biggest surprise was finding a pair of Allen Edmonds MacNeil burgundy shell cordovans this summer, in great shape, at my local Goodwill shop for the princely sum of $15! Although I was just changing browns,I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. Hi, Hey Rogey, Later, you can then brush them off, followed by a thin layer of protective cream polish, rubbed into the shell, and a thorough brushing. Just checking you dont think I am here? I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. They simpy cost too much to take the chance, in my view. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. Great article. Hi, Hi Simon Since there is no base layer that needs to be built-up, you can jump straight into using stiffer Paste/Wax polishes, and High Shine or Mirror Gloss. But then I am biased as I really like Vass. Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? Above all, each piece is different. They mentioned some sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black. Curious how your Alden full straps fit now? Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. Brush it briskly before wearing. I know a lot of people size down half but 99% of the time, sizing down causes a length issue for my toes. boots better. Sometimes boxes make their way back to the factory for short or long term storage - home closets tend to fill up. And why specifically deer bone? Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. Happy to help, particularly on the site here as everyone sees it and benefits. Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . I actually went up a half size on the jumper boots, but that was because I knew Id wear them with really thick socks in winter. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. All of my Aldens are comfortablethe most important thing in any shoeand Alden makes a quality product at a fair price. 1. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? I was getting desperate. Further complicating matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers. Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much. Your first pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Color 8 is by far the most common color of shell cordovan available. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? I suppose the one generalization that fits, however, is on finish. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? Ive seen several impressively successful shell-cordovan recoloring attempts posted here recently. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. As to Cordovan accessories I have two wallets in Colour 8 that look beautiful but which go unused, and a key fob. Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? If I find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them? I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. 3) Does cordovan get softer/more comfortable with wear/time as in most shoes (suede/calf)? One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. very interesting article, as always. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff ain't cheap. Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. Hi Simon great post. If your foot flexes at different points in the shoe from its previous owner, youll end up putting in more ripples in the shoe, deforming its original shape further. I'm not entirely sure why they fell out of someone's rotation, but I'm happy they did. Shell cordovan, that most magical of leathers derived from a horses hindquarters, is also one that stands to benefit most from regular care. Ask for Jim when you email them. To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. Gents! As to belt, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look. Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. RO! Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. Absolutely agree Color 8 is very versatile and you can never truly find a calf to match that color (though I have tried). It states Cordovan on the insole. I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . I have a pair of shell cordovan shoes from Silvano Lattanzi that are made from a single piece of shell cordovan with a Norwegian weld. Its usually mostly a combination of availability and then fashion. and Im now interested in buying a pair of casual/dress boots. last year (shown below). A lot of cordovan polish? Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. Have a great day, It will adapt a little bit faster, yes. Interesting article Simon. Would you consider adding any cordovan accessories? Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. Advice appreciated. Hi Simon, In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . Dark brown suede is versatile and I love it, but not quite the same edge to it. Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. 187 Likes, 0 Comments - (@matthews.grail) on Instagram: ". At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. For me it was Wolverine 1000 Mile boots. I would have figured it to be more formal. Yes thats right. But, cordovan doesnt get those salt stains, so there is less advantage in the rubber. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. and our Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? Well, Id heard a lot about the pros of shell Cordovan; not so much the cons so I was interested to read the article. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. Its certainly thicker than calf. Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. Regions that include horse in their diet are scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Are they much higher? The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! That last is only more comfortable on most people because it is larger and so more forgiving. BTW, Shellac is like a lacquer, used in felt hat making too. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Hey, Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. Ive only seen the exact style on sale in the US, yes, but that could change it depends what other Alden stockists decide to order. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. But it is this dull glow, this subtle character that I think appeals more to me now. Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. Its different. But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? The shopkeeper guy suggested me to get 7.5 as they will stretch. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. 2. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. You recognise the beauty and usefulness of the leather, its just an ethical question for you. Those who dont which includes most of the big shoe brands when it comes to offering Horween Shell Cordovan shoes, like Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, Carmina etc treats the cordovan hides themselves to make it withstand moisture and dirt better. Same on the eyelets. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. Again, associations and familiarity. Much appreciated. Let it slowly come back to health. Secondly, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way as regular leather. Make their way back to the material sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten black. 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