[32] Some of these big names even appeared in Jackson Streets nightclubs. That organization morphed into Local 493 in 1924, and the two unions co-existed inharmoniously for the next four decades. The Steelheads were a part of the West Coast Negro Baseball League owned by Abe Saperstein, who also owned the Harlem Globetrotters basketball team. 29 backwards! she snaps back, an iron trap. [23] Ibid., 17-20. But few civic disengagements have been as visible as whats happened with the Elks and organizations like it. George IV left the order, declaring he would establish a rival club, according to a history of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows published by the Philadelphia Evening Telegraph in 1867. See the News section and our Facebook page for updated information. The proximity of Seattle to Asia also gave Jackson Street musicians the unique opportunity to travel and perform internationally. In 1906, sensing an opportunity to improve relations with the BPOE, the IBPOEW Grand Exalted Ruler Armand W. Scott ordered Black Elks to wear an IBPOEW pin, not the BPOE pin. The Montgomery lodge is part of the mostly black Elks of the World, a group that was formed over a century ago when black people were not allowed to join the BPOE. But why the Elks? In November 1928, Johnson made his way from California to Washington in search of opportunities to play music, and found them on Jackson Street. Using the app to sign up and working your shift enters you in a 2x month drawing for a $50 Social Quarters gift certificate! While the Great Depression was ending, the swing era of jazz was just beginning. WA's government transparency committee is ready to call it quits, At Seattle Opera, A Thousand Splendid Suns burns brightly, Seattle's Third Avenue Project takes a new approach to old problems, Planting the seeds for Washington's forest restoration efforts, This Elks Lodge is a throwback to South Seattle before gentrification, In Seattle, a one-of-a-kind hospital for broken vacuums, The century-old butcher shop that has become a Seattle staple, Seattles oldest country bar keeps two-stepping, Pacific Science Center plans to transform its iconic pools, Human Elements: A lone ranger rides for the wolves in rural WA, Starbucks union fight shows hard road for many toward contract, Sign up for the Crosscut Weekly newsletter, WA lawmakers work to keep public records from the public again, Free school lunch for all is off the table, but WA may expand access. When Henry first met Keiko what fragrance did she smell like for a brief moment? A low-ceilinged room peppered with cocktail tables, the club sported a stuffed Elk near the door, behind which musicians recall smoking joints. As a musical style and as a social movement, jazz embodied this forward looking spirit. [4] Black migrants brought with them jazz and musical traditions from around the country and, by the 1910s, Seattles culture of legalized corruptionsupported venues for music. Prohibition, which began in Washington in 1916, prompted the need for underground clubs and speakeasies and city officials were all too eager to look the other wayand even encourage viceupon receiving cash payment. There was a distinct need and desire for these organizations in Black communities because they were wanted everywhere. While police raids were a constant annoyance, they rarely had lasting negative effects on popular clubs like the Black and Tan. Destructive 'Super Pigs' From Canada Threaten the Northern U.S. Before World War II, membership was at 1.1 million and growing at a rate of 110,000 new members a year. Orangeism does not foster resentment or intolerance. New disks are on their way. For Blacks, these organizations also provided a boost in self-esteem. In 1891, the Sons of Americarefused to delete the word whitein its constitution, defeating a proposition that would allow black men to apply. Nestor and his wife moved to Ballard decades ago, buying a home that theyd never be able to afford today. In 1976, membership crested at 1.6 million, but over the next 30 years, as the civic generation began to die off and boomers and Gen X came of age, membership plummeted to 850,000. The Ancient Order of United Workmen is no longer around, but its legacy continues, as the order unintentionally created anew kind of insurancethat would influence other fraternal groups to add an insurance provision in their constitutions. During which war does this story take place? But is it not so surprising: as local jazz pianist Julian Henson put it, Seattle was a town-and-a-half, manNothing happening til after twelve oclock, then it came alive. Were in the womens bathroom of the Ballard Elks Club, decorated with white wicker furniture and a tray of drugstore lotions and hairspray. As swing developed, Seattles youth danced to big time jazz names like Duke Ellington, Benny Goodman, Woody Herman, and Gene Krupa, as well as to the local Jackson Street jazz musicians. What the Elks provides varies from person to person, but the overarching gift remains the same: Its like home, in a time when that notion is very much in flux. Previously the site of lavish Victorian homes, by 1890 Yesler-Jackson had an abundance of third-rate hotels, shops, bars, and brothels, which made the area decidedly lower-class. But when Sound Transit effectively forced the lodge into selling a portion of its land for the widening and rejiggering of MLK Way, Brooks says, "We lost a lot of business. Lodge Directory. It was established in 1897 in the United States. During this period, Yesler Way represented the dividing line between the more respectable parts of Seattle to the north, and the newly settled Yesler-Jackson community to the south. [6] While Jackson Street was always the heart of Seattles jazz scene, the nightlight extended to semi-legal roadhouses (freestanding nightclubs located on the outskirts of town) where alcohol and jazz flowed freely. But then they see what happens, and they say, Wow, that was wonderful," Anne told me. [4] Ibid., 108. [11] Ibid., 147. After the organization denied membership to Nazis, notably military leader Hermann Goering, Hitler dissolved it, but the order reemerged after World War II, and an American chapter was founded in the late 1960s. Shes just there to pick up supplies for the massive lasagna dinner the troops hosting at the lodge that weekend (sold out at 200, raising $4,400 for the Scouts, 10% of which went to the Elks). Under Bonds' stewardshipas former chapter president, the Elks Lodge paid off its mortgage and now owns the building. Prospective members of the Protestant fraternity dont take a pledge, they just have to affirm their acceptance of the Principles of Reformation, as well as loyalty to their country. [10] Taylor, 148. President Roosevelts New Deal cash infusions put money into peoples pockets, which created demand for nighttime entertainment. An earlier version of this story misstated that fact. That prompted Blacks to form their own organization, the Improved Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks of the World (IBPOEW). The resentment among members of the white Elks continued. Keiko 's father. No! Daniel Curry spends his days on horseback studying wolves migration patterns and deterring them from encroaching on the human landscape. 2023 Smithsonian Magazine The Maguires likely got its name because members used womens clothing as a disguise while allegedly carrying out its illegal acts, which also included arson and death threats. Self care and ideas to help you live a healthier, happier life. Johnson first left Jackson Street in 1934 for greener pastures in Portland, Oregon, another west coast jazz city. Menu The toast is ostensibly about the Elks, but it also ritualizes the broad and primal hunger to know that your presence has been, in some way, indelible a dream that joining, and its attendant commitment, of labor, of capital, of care, guarantees. When the club is booked for a private event, enjoy the intimacy of our original Sunset Lounge Social Quarters and balcony deck on the second floor! Many Ballard Elks were first drawn to the beach parking and cheap drinks, but have found that their investment in the lodge, and the community that forms around it, has transformed into something more. The Knights of Pythiascolors are blue, yellow and red. Jazz on Jackson Street provided an environment where Seattleites of all races and classes could come together to enjoy themselves during the hard economic times of the Great Depression. The group voted to name itself the Elks, narrowly defeating the Buffaloes, and borrowed much of its ritual from the Freemasons, then one of the largest organizations in the country. DJ Smooth T sits in the booth and plays music for members at Cascade Lodge No. Our lodge is a true landmark in Seattle. He says, "Membership will rise and fall. "So we just have to keep showing them success.. It was jazz man.[8] And it was jazz that made Jackson Street famous. club the FBI raid. A steady stream of immigrants and migrants swelled Seattles population from 3,533 in 1880 to 80,671 in 1900. But he loves whats happened at the Elks. Living or dead, an Elk is never forgotten, never forsaken. . The #92 signifies it as the 92nd Lodge in the United States. . [7] Ibid., 12-17. "Serving the community and forming a relationship with people you might or might not have something in common with" is what appeals to Blacknall, who adds, "People like coming here because they feel safe. As the new members introduced themselves, a group of 20-plus Elks paddleboarders were grouped around a large table in the other room, putting the final touches on a plan that will allow them to store their boards in the lodges basement. Indeed, after they arrived in Seattle, Jones' uncle hired the pair for a regular gig at the Black Elks Club, a popular venue in the 600 block of Jackson Street. [2] Ibid., 1. The First Floor of the Ballard Elks Lodge is a splendid waterfront location for events from weddings to corporate functions. He felt there was a moral need for an organization that practiced brotherly love, which would make sense, seeing as the country was in the midst of the Civil War. Every Sunday morning, Crosscut's weekly email sums up the best stories of the week. Copyright 1994 Visible Ink Press, Detroit, MI [1] Although Washington Hall held many shows, the heart of Seattle jazz was just southeast at the corner of 12th and Jackson Street: according to historian Paul de Barros, [t]his is where Seattle jazz was born and where it flowered.[2]. "The black community, we had to have our own spaces, we couldn't go to other clubs." There aren't many people left who can recount the history of the Black Elks Lodge, but Barbara Lewis can. Prompted by distaste for vice, as well as their own racist sentiments, city officials and police began to take action against Jackson Street clubs illicit activities, and police raids increased during the Depression. But the upstairs is Elks territory, in all its wood-paneled glory. How progressive the order actually was is up to interpretation. Thanks to all who got a copy of the first b Dr. James Gore interviews me for 60 minutes on KKNW. Black Rabbit Red! Black First: The Seattle Elks Lodge has a rich history of fellowship and service to the Seattle community. Seattles Black population numbered only 406 in 1900, but the following decades saw a sharp increase in Black migration. "God knows what they were thinking back then," Rick Gathen, the BPOE's national marketing manager, says of his organization's regrettable racial underpinnings. Indeed, historian Quintard Taylor remarks that the Jackson Street clubs were the only places where well-to-do white businessmen and socialites met black and Asian laborers and maids as social equals.[10] While the musicians on Jackson Street were mostly Black, they played for crowds of whites from all over the city as well as for Blacks and Asians. With the recent spike in membership, the Seattle Elks, the formal name of the Queen Anne lodge, now has about 300 members. A Rainier Beach fraternal organization fights for survival amid the citys depressing trend of African-American flight. 1416 in Seattle's Rainier Beach neighborhood, Feb. 23, 2019. Box 33627 Seattle, WA 98133 Lodge Phone Number (206) 282-9292 Our Lodge / Club Hours Monday: 3:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Tuesday: 3:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Wednesday: 3:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Thursday: 3:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Friday: 3:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Dr. Samuel Myers Jr. is an economist, educator and activist. A woman who gave her name as Yvette dances and whistles to a song during a 70s-themed partyat Cascade Lodge No. Like the Foresters, it set up protections for its members. A few years later, in 1920, Smith and Jimmy Woodland open the Entertainers Club at 12th and Jackson. In truth, Seattles transformation resembles that of San Francisco, Austin, and Brooklyn and is a natural extension of gentrifying processes set in motion more than 20 years ago. Many Black jazz musicians said that while playing in Shanghai they were treated with respect for the fist time in their lives.[26] Accustomed to living under racial segregation in the United States, it is not surprising that Black jazz musicians felt they received more respect and more freedom in the cosmopolitan city of Shanghai. ), In many ways, Lois is the go-to historian for the Elks: Shes been attending functions since the 1960s, when they were in their old building, and joined the Emblem Club, a still-vibrant auxiliary organization for spouses of Elks members that developed during World War I. Lois describes the lodge in the 60s as kind of weird. The women couldnt come in the bar, which was up on the second floor, she says. But police raids were common, and highly visible club owners like Smith attracted more attention from the often racist police institution. In Farewell to Manzanar , Jeanne Wakatsuki Houston describes her father singing "Kimi ga yo," the Japanese national anthem. The first African American societies were formed before the American Civil War, providing one of the few routes for Blacks to economic and personal advancement. Liz Mozzarella is the Girl Scout leader who picked up supplies for the lasagna dinner. Johnson describes Shanghai as a cosmopolitan city with representatives of every race in the population. The youngsters, as I call them, they keep me young, he says, his tone metered and deliberate. It directly impacts their communities, and they can feel and touch it.. Isnt this fun? she asks no one in particular. [8] Palmer Johnson, Interview with Paul de Barros and Jim Wilke, 20 November 1988; 16 October, 23 October, 4 November, 26 November, and 17 December 1989. Nearly every night, she drives the 10 minutes from her home in North Ballard and drinks MacNaughton and water out of a pink beer mug that everyone knows as hers. This transformative experience in China afforded through jazz music is indeed remarkable. 'The stag bar,' they called it. Upon his return to Seattle in 1937, Johnson found Jackson Street as alive as ever with a number of new clubs quickly gaining in popularity. Moreover, because public opinion generally sided with the clubs owner and patrons, raids created sympathy and sometimes additional patronage for Jackson Street night clubs. First, Seattle had a very small Black population, with about 3,500 Black residents out of about 366,000 in total. In 1874, the American and Canadian branches left the Ancient Order and set up the Independent Order of the Foresters. Although Blacks were never the racial majority in the Yesler-Jackson neighborhood, the area housed much of Seattles Black population, which numbered 2,894 by 1920. And there are allurements, if you know where to find themJackson Street might well be called the Poor Mans Playground. Here all races meet on common ground and rub elbows as equals. As to the question of whether they are anti-Roman Catholic, the official website states, Orangeism is a positive rather than a negative force. Im going back to the kitchen to get a piece of foil for my leftovers, she tells me, and Im gonna tell Felix that was the worst damn steak., The head of scholarship, Karl Johan Uri, made a barnaise sauce at home, and a small Tupperware of it is circulating at a corner table, where Ellen, in her early thirties, waits for her husband to arrive. But when that money stays local when you meet the students who receive the scholarship when they come to the lodge, or watch the Girl Scouts run around the event space next door it just feels different. In this segment, he shares a few reasons why he enjoys the African American community, O de wurl aint flat,An de wurl aint roun,Hits one long stripHangin up an downJes Souf an Norf;Jes Norf an Souf. A place for members to socialize. As multiple studies have shown, the more you drink and eat and do philanthropy work and live with people unlike you, the more likely you are to treat them as people, whether in your voting patterns, public speech, or willingness to help them in a time of crisis. Skip to content Call Us: (206) 784-0827 6411 Seaview Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107 And the relatively small size of the Jackson Street jazz scene allowed the musicians, club owners, and club patrons to develop a sense of community. Theres a similar cult of personality around Nestor Tamayao, a retired Army communications officer who, along with his brother, Felix, joined the Elks in 2012. The name is a reference to the Greek legend ofDamon and Pythias, the Pythagorean ideal of friendship. Nevertheless, some Seattleitesparticularly upper-class whitesdisapproved of the abundance of vice and racial mixing on Jackson Street. There are myriad reasons for the decay in social capital and civic investment: women moving full-time into the workforce, suburbanization and resultant commute time, television, globalization, changes in the family unit, and a general distrust and disillusion with politics and efficacy of civic engagement. Johnsons letter gives a sense of the unique opportunity for jazz musicians to play in Shanghai and the social critique of American society the experience prompted. Hence, a predominantly African-American membership that peaked at about 200 two decades ago has dwindled to fewer than 50. [28] Ibid., 41. He owned both a Stutz Bearcat and a 1921 Packard and his ostentatious lifestyle likely offended many in such hard times, especially racist whites who cursed the success of Black entrepreneurs. Together, the roadhouses and the Jackson Street night clubs embedded jazz in Seattles nightlife and [b]y 1928, jazz had taken over the popular music scene.[7] Clubs continued to pop up on and around Jackson Streetthe Blue Rose (later called the Rocking Chair) on 14th and Yesler and the Chinese Gardens Club (aka the Bucket of Blood), across from 511 7th Street Southand even when the stock market crashed and the Great Depression hit, there was no doubt that jazz would remain on Jackson Street. He says Washington state lodges, in particular, have launched successful recruiting initiatives none more impressive than that of the Ballard Elks Lodge, which boasts a jaw-dropping 1,898 members. So when I moved to Seattle, I asked myself, How do I capture that same community?, In my job, Im in a world of How do you make big global change,' she continues. It was formally called the Improved Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks and was founded in Cincinnati, OH. The two men decided to take the orders name and make their own club around it. Jackson Street became the hotbed for Seattles jazz scene primarily because of its proximity to the Black community and because of the underground nightclub scene that developed during the Prohibition years. by Jessie Carney Smith Brad has a jolly build and a salt-and-pepper beard; hes somewhere in his forties, drinks Coronas, and has lived in Old Ballard, as people call it, forever. Along with his girlfriend, Anne, he functions as the clubs de facto welcoming committee, responding swiftly to emails, talking up the club, and ushering new members through initiation. The view from the room is beautiful,, Satch S. said: Every time I have gone into this business to rent something it has, Seasaidh M. said: I had a bad experience for reasons that were outside of normal, Tim K. said: Having party needed table and chairs and few other items. [31] Ad for The Green Dot, Northwest Enterprise, 11 January, 1934, p.4. According to the non-profit African American Registry, the fraternal order was founded in Cincinnati, Ohio, in 1899 after two black men were denied admission to the Benelovent and Protective Order of Elks of the World, which is still popular today and, despite questions raised on discriminative practices, now allows any American citizen, 21 years or older, who believes in God tobe invited to join its ranks. In 1907, the Seattle Republican reported on the Order . The older Brooks gets, the more unfamiliar Seattle feels to him and his older African-American peers, whove fled historically Black neighborhoods for the suburbs in droves as one of their south-side social institutions fights for survival. To facilitate this musical exchange within bands, jazz bands got biggeroften times with twenty members or moreand became know as big bands.[19]. The invitation to the Portland Elks initiation, 1908. Our Social Quarters is staffed with many volunteers each day. We call it going Elkn. Its fun to get your friends to join, and to meet new friends here, he adds. White Elks in Birmingham, AL, pulled Riggs from where he worked and threatened to lynch him unless he relinquished the charter on his next trip to Birmingham. The building is also home to an . According to local jazz pianist Palmer Johnson, in the 1920s we played [n]o Dixieland and no two-beatThats old-time stuff. At the time, secret societies were banned from Ireland as they were said to have acted in antagonism to the Land League, an Irish political organization, according to Irelands official records on statistics of eviction and crime. With the nightlife heating up by 1922, in the basement of the Entertainers Club Smith and Williams christened the Alhambra, which became know as the Black and Tan by 1932 and would become a hot spot for Seattle jazz during the Great Depression. Im about as Seattle as you can get, Ariel Nilsen tells me later that week between rolls of the dice game, a lodge tradition in which members pay a dollar for three rolls of the dice. 1416 seen adjacent to the Rainier Beach Light Rail Station at the intersection of Martin Luther King Jr. Way South and South Henderson Street in Seattle's Rainier Beach neighborhood, Feb. 23, 2019. We now live in a much more welcome environment where people respect what you have in your heart and couldn't care less about your race or gender or sexual preference. I am facilitating a class at Puget Sound Community School that will read Hotel on the Corner of Bitter and Sweet this term. [9] Jackson Street is Quiet Thoroughfare On Sunday, Northwest Enterprise, 12 October, 1933, p.1. In the 1870s, 24 foreman and supervisors in the coal mines of Pennsylvania were assassinated. Yet despite his arrest the previous morning, Black and Tan owner Noodles Smith had the club open that very evening. Thank you for coming this afternoon. Im Spanish and Italian; I have 38 first cousins 200 will be nothing. Zuniga asks King if shes had the time to look at her rsum, which shes promised to pass along to a colleague at the University of Washington. Secretary Lois Morgensen at the Ballard Elks Club. Zuniga scrolls through photos on her phone, showing pictures of the girls, who span first through sixth grades, working diligently on various badge projects. Members of the secret society the Molly Maguires, an organization with Irish origins brought to the United States by Irish immigrants. [5] Though Seattles jazz scene was still in its infancy, the citys lenience toward illicit clubs allowed them to grow into what would become the future home for jazz on Jackson Street. The Patriotic Order Sons of America dates back to the early days of the American Republic,according to its official website. With this in mind, Smith opened the Ubangi club sometime after 1935 and according to Paul de Barros, it was one of the Jackson Street districts most successful and glamorous black-owned nightclubs.[28] The Ubangi had exquisite African themed dcor, complete with potted palms, and it boasted two large stages, one on each of its floors. They were determined to form an organization that granted membership to all qualified individuals without regard to race, creed, or ethnicity. You know, the Elks wasnt open to people of color, he tells me. Fill in any field or combination of fields to find a lodge. Susan A. said: Spent 4 nights here. This historically Black non-profit charitable, fraternal organization is still operating. It was formally called the Improved Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks and was founded in Cincinnati, OH. Welcome to Ballard Elks, Seattle, Washington. When my family lived in Wallingford, we were the only Asian family in the entire neighborhood. Since then, the demographics of Seattle, like the Elks themselves, have been slow to shift. Theres Green Lake to the north and the polluted Duwamish River meandering south, and in between all that water, there are neighborhoods: the radical and queer of Capitol Hill, the chichi of Queen Anne and Magnolia, the hippies of Fremont, the pan-Asian enclave of the International District, the aspirational squares of Wallingford and Green Lake, the young families of West Seattle, the historic African-American community of the Central District, and the sleepy, Scandinavian-infused world of Ballard. Ordering was, Planning and Coordination personalized to create an unforgettable experience from. Condemnation of religious ideology is directed against church doctrine and not against individual adherents or members.. Cookie Settings, The organizations secretary said that the press, questions raised on discriminative practices, left the order, declaring he would establish a rival club, a variety of community service activities. Miss Lillian Smiths Jazz Band played to raise money for the NAACP and officially opened Seattles local jazz scene. [27] Clearly, the Jackson Street jazz clubs had only continued to multiply during Palmer Johnsons extended absence. There's a lodge that's younger, but they're not growing. Today, there arent barriers like that. As late as 1989, there was only one black member at the three Seattle lodges; today, lodges do not collect statistics about the racial makeup of their members, but a normal night more or less mirrors the makeup of Seattle: around 68% white, 14% Asian, 7% Latino or Hispanic, 8% black, and 3% biracial or other races. Based on Charity,. All night people running from club to club. Chartered in 1925, the lodge was established because, at the time, Black people were barred from joining the city's all-white Elks. In the early 21st century, it has 500,000 members and 1500 lodges . All members are required to check off boxes on an application stating that they believe in a higher power and to pledge that they have never attempted to overthrow the government a recent modification from the stipulation that members could not be Communists. Lodge Name or No. Ballard Elks Club. Today, most lodges have diversified: While many, especially in rural areas, remain largely white, there are dozens of clubs whose membership is almost entirely black; in Charlottesville, Virginia, the Elks Club has become the only real place for black folks to go.. This historically Black non-profit charitable, fraternal organization is still operating. Its kinda like your own country club., At this point, Brads wingman, Scott Tom Cruiselike head of hair; works in IT at the University of Washington interjects: I like to remind people, though, that once youre an Elk, youre an Elk for life. (Its so unflattering!). Blue signifies friendship, yellow charity and red benevolence, theNorth Carolina Evening Chroniclewrotein a special edition celebrating the 50th anniversary of the club in 1914. During the era of segregation, the lodge was one of the few places where black men and women could socialize, the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette wrote. Phone: (206) 784-0827 The phone is only answered during office hours. [33] Taylor, 147. Jazz musicians in Seattle, c. 1925. Riggs obtained a copy of the BPOE ritual and applied for and was granted copyright for the Black Elks. It seems that jazz music gave Johnson the opportunity to experience a society where racial differences were much less important and formulate critiques of the prevalent mentality of white superiority in the U.S. Seattle's Black population numbered only 406 in 1900, but the following decades saw a sharp increase in Black migration. Fillipinos [sic], Japanese, Negros and whites mingle in the same hotels and restaurants and there is an air of comradeship."[9]. Lodge meets 2nd & 4th Tuesdays at 7:30 pm. Residents out of about 366,000 in total population numbered only 406 in 1900 but! Lodge paid off its mortgage and now owns the building mixing on Jackson Street, decorated white... Said that while playing in Shanghai they were treated with respect for the NAACP and officially opened local. Musicians the unique opportunity to travel and perform internationally to multiply during Palmer Johnsons extended.. 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