The tradition goes back centuries to Charles IX, who inaugurated it in 1561. ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. And somewhat more heavy-handedly in home fragrance, loo cleaners and those taxi-cab car perfumes, Goutal Nuit Etoile ClarinsEauRessourcante Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. Then youll know that honey comes in so many different varieties, each taking their smell (and colour) from the flowers on which the bees that produce it have feasted. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur DedCool Fragrance 03 Blonde: Black Violet/Saffron. Miller Harris La Pluie (Vanilloids are also found in cocoa, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and hot peppers which partly explains why theyre all such taste sensations. Le Labo Labdanum 18 Derived froma plant native to Brazil, tonka bean has an aroma of vanilla, but with strong hints of cinnamon, cloves, and almonds. And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Here'sAndy Tauer on therestrictions on using cinnamon, which he shared withThe Perfume Society - and why he loves to use it, all the same: 'Ah a forbidden fruit, restricted by the EU and IFRA. 5. Donna KaranBlack Cashmere Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka (Hence citral is one of the few perfume ingredients you may see listed on the box your scents packaged in). Christian Dior Sakura "It has a light green aroma. It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. Common allergens fall into the five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and metals. The availability of this synthetic ingredient has probably helped to shape the trend for aquatic fragrances, as well as for fruity-florals. Citron is French for lemon. Yet try as they might, perfumers have never been able to capture the scent of freesias. (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. "Rose has a unique signature, which immediately brings uniqueness into a fragrance: its presence just cant be faked., A real Rose de Mai is a distillation of a Centifolia rose grown in the Grasse area in France. ", Frangipani is a fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West Indian Jasmine.". Today, many of us carry a little bag around to munch on during the day, as a (slightly) healthier alternative to sweets. Occasionally, Myrrh has a smoky and syrupy character. Este Lauder Pleasures And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. (Its also used in folk medicine.) . Crabtree & Evelyn Nadiora Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois ), and in pomanders to protect against infection. Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them, however. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille LArtisan Parfumer Dzing! According to the Bible, fig leaves preserved the modesty of Adam and Eve. Nina Ricci Nina. As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. Chanel Coco "Jasmine notes are powerful, green fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle. Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud. Givenchy Amarige Dior JAdore Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) One things for sure: dahlias dont smell as blowsy as they look. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. As mixed as my memories of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, I loved the scent of my leather boots. The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. Dior JAdore Theyre wonderful in the home, possibly the perfume-lovers must-have bloom. There are actually two types, which share the same marigold umbrella name: Calendula officinalis, and Tagetes Glandulifera (the French marigold, a.k.a. It is dual, it has a multifarious seduction. Zing! Burberry Body Lancme Miracle Intense Cinnamomum cassia even has cinnamon in its botanical name, and is known sometimes as Chinese cinnamon, or even false cinnamon. Memo Shams Paco Rabanne 1 Million Not the ones we now buy in supermarkets, which have become such a popular design statement. Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss is prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried, making it reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. Its fascinating to us how perfumes which are invisible can have a texture, but the fragrances listed below really do give a sense of that, as they cocoon you with their musky, woody, velvety, leathery qualities. Nice myth, though. Rich and heady, tiar is also used to create monoi oil (familiar from many suntanning products), by macerating the flowers in coconut oil. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil If you ever come across a piece of the wood itself, its magical: the scent can still be enjoyed, years after it was harvested. Were used to slooshing this onto our salads or into our frying pans but spritzing it onto our pulse-points? In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Femme The darkness of tobacco sets the flower petals in fire. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X Tom Ford Caf Rose Add a little lemon verbena to a fragrance, and it delivers a brisk, pure, floral-citrus scent, like bruising the fragrant leaves of this shrubby plant between your fingers. Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret While they are one of the best perfume brands in the world, offering options for both women and men, they are a complete fashion company. Its also said to be good for memory (as well as for stimulating hair growth), and is used symbolically in weddings, funerals and war commemorations in the UK and Australia: Rosemary for remembrance. In my perfumery work, I usesynthetics for raspberry chords, too. In perfumery, the most useful iris plants are Iris Pallida (mauve in colour), Iris Germanica (strong purple) and Iris Florentina (white flowers). Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. Unlike the flowers, which add a powdery touch to scents, violet leaf smells very green and works best in watery fragrances and masculine scents, especially in the fougre family. Goutal Neroli Diane von Furstenburg Diane Givenchy Amarige Pears so crisp and clean a note, you can almost hear it crunch. Chanel Les Exclusifs Cuir de Russie (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) (Its sometimes spelled opopanax, too, with an a.). Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. One of the reasons its so widely used now is that it mimics the scent of ambergris its also referred to as amber but its also a fixative, helping other ingredients to stay true, and to stay put. The waxy flowers of this tender twining shrub also known as Madagascar Jasmine or Creeping Tuberose are traditionally used in wedding bouquets and headdresses: romantic, sweet, and (yes) a little like tuberose and jasmine. (Though it can help to accent other herbal elements of a composition. Its dry, cool and bracken-like, adding a green feel to a scent. Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? The most celebrated use of bourgeons de cassis has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade. Nowadays, its usually a somewhat less romantic solvent process. Caron Farnesiana Floris Tuberose Since gourmand fragrances took off, bananas been used more widely: the sweetness of the juicy fruit note gives a good-enough-to-eat quality. Guerlain Jicky Gucci Guilty Intense LOccitane en Provence Neroli eau de parfum Artmesia absinthium is accordingly a very green, sharp, bitter herbaceous fragrance element; youll find it more usually in mens scents, where it brings balance to floral notes. Different basils have different fragrance qualities: it can be lemony, or tarragon-like, or well, just plain basil-y. Subtler and greener than many fruits, wed say it was almost made to be garlanded by white flowers, for a spring-like touch. Maybe it is because it brings together the etherealpleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our bodywith food. ', Chanel Coromandel Dolce & Gabbana The One Gwen Stefani L Its highly skilled work, and only a few distilleries produce patchouli of a high enough quality to please a VIP nose, or creator. Artemisia refers to a large family of aromatic plants think: mugwort (moxa, in Chinese medicine), tarragon and wormwood. (Which weve filed under F.) Some of these alternatives smell close to the real thing, with animalic tones and other alternatives smell like sun-bleached clean laundry or driftwood.". How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. Max Mara Le Parfum 'The first association, when you tell me "leather", honestly, is "Swiss Army" and me serving there as soldier: mygeneration had the privilege of serving in thick leather shows that were made to endure a Swiss invasion of Moscow, including the way back. ', Comme des Garons Black Pepper (Cashmeran is a trademarked ingredient from the perfumer supplier International Flavours and Fragrances, or IFF.) Sisley Eau du Soir. Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. (Which basically means it makes some other ingredients work better together). Lanvin Jeanne Lanvin Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). Byredo Rose Noir ', Smell benzoin in: Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. ChloLove, ChloEau Florale The leaves of this flowering plant which can grow to two or three metres are deliciously lemony and fresh when rubbed, and give a cleanness and uplifting freshness to scents. See our brands. LArtisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Jeans. The more one studies its character that of natural musk tincture, the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive-attractive, chemical-warm, sweaty-balmy, acrid-waxy, earthy-powdery, fatty-chocolate-like, pungent-leathery, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions. Depending on the perfumers wish, it can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin), after deliberately damaging the bark. Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. ChloEau de Parfum Intense Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus "It is super-chic, and I strongly believe in its rebirth after years of outdatedness. (Many naturals are positively timid on the skin.). Jo Loves Pomelo "Oud or agarwood has been revered in Asian, Arabic, and North African cultures for millennia," says Illolahia. Ralph Lauren Lauren $90 at Credo Beauty. If youve ever walked in an evergreen forest, cedar will transport you back there, too. Absolutely. Oscar de la Renta Live in Love It goes to show: flowers are more than what we see. Amber as a perfume ingredient first made its debut in the late 1800s, with the invention of synthetic vanilla (vanillin); nowadays, its so widely used in ambre-style perfumes that its given rise to a whole category (Amber ambre). "There are two different extracts of clary sage: The oil is a bit more aromatic, while the absolute has notes of ambroxan, dried tea leaves, and gives a natural meadow effect., A commonly used perfume compound that smells like vanilla, coumarin is usually derived from the tonka bean (see below), but also found in lavender, sweetgrass, and other plants. (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) Serge Lutens Daim Blonde Options LTD goes above and beyond to make the private label experience as fun as possible. Yardley English Lavender, Labdanum from the Cistus plant (better known to some gardeners as Rock Rose) is a pillar of chypre perfumes and many Ambres. Perfumery isnt the most familiar use of flax (a.k.a. Yves Saint LaurentLa Collection Nu. Burberry Sport for Women Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild But just like a real cocktail (paper parasol optional), it adds a sense of summer to fragrances. Formed in 1910 by Coco Chanel, this company really has its finger on the world of fashion. Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). Used alongside rose, it extends and fixes roses sweetness. There is an animalic, furry, dirty line. Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. Its generally used as a fixative or stabiliser in many perfumes helping to make sure that a favourite scent smells consistent, and keeping it true for many years in the bottle. LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a lAube Adding a nutty quality, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like. Styrene is one of the 3,000-odd ingredients on the list. Yves Saint LaurentParisienne. No, not really suede but perfumers can recreate the suedes enveloping sensuality, in perfumery using synthetic ingredients. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. Chopard Wish Pure BRAND'S VALUE FOR MONEY: 9/10 BRAND SCORE: A. This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impriale Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? (Lots of perfume notes work synergistically in this way, which is why perfumery is such a complex art.). 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